History of Varanasi India: The Eternal City That Has Never Stopped Breathing

 

Introduction: A City That Was Old When the World Was Young

Close your eyes for a moment.

Imagine standing on a stone ghat as the sun bleeds orange over the Ganges. The river is wide, silver, and ancient. A priest lifts a lamp of fire toward the sky. Temple bells ring from somewhere deep in the labyrinth of lanes behind you. A child releases a marigold diya onto the water. A very old man closes his eyes and folds his hands.

You are not in a place that feels old. You are in a place that is time itself.

This is Varanasi  India's holiest city, the world's oldest living city, and one of the most layered, complex, and spiritually charged places on Earth.

Whether you are a history lover, a spiritual seeker, or simply someone who wants to understand the real India, the history of Varanasi will leave you forever changed.

 Planning a visit to North India? Varanasi pairs beautifully with Agra and Jaipur on an extended Golden Triangle tour from Agra. Get in touch with Trip to Taj Mahal to start building your custom itinerary.

What Is the History of Varanasi in Brief?

Varanasi  also called Kashi or Banaras  is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with recorded history stretching back over 3,000 years and archaeological evidence pointing to settlements as early as 1800 BCE. Founded, according to Hindu mythology, by Lord Shiva himself, the city grew from a Vedic learning center to a Buddhist landmark, survived Mughal conquest, and thrived under British India  all while never losing its sacred status on the banks of the Ganges.

 

What Is Varanasi? An Overview

Location: Left bank of the Ganges River, southeastern Uttar Pradesh, northern India Other Names: Kashi (City of Light), Banaras/Benaras, Avimukta (The Never-Forsaken) Distance from Delhi: 692 km southeast Distance from Agra: 560 km east UNESCO Status: Proposed World Heritage Site (Ghats and the city)

Varanasi is the spiritual capital of India. It is one of the seven sacred cities of Hinduism (Sapta Puri), a major site for Jains and Buddhists, and a living museum of 3,000+ years of Indian culture, philosophy, and art.

Why Is Varanasi Famous?

• 84 ghats  stone steps descending into the Ganges, each with its own mythology and ritual life
• The Kashi Vishwanath Temple, one of Hinduism's twelve Jyotirlingas
• Sarnath, just 10 km away  where the Buddha gave his very first sermon
• The mesmerizing Ganga Aarti ceremony, held every evening without fail
• Ancient Banarasi silk, woven with gold and silver thread for centuries
• A living tradition of classical music, dance, Sanskrit scholarship, and Ayurveda

Mark Twain captured it perfectly when he visited in the 19th century

Benaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together."

The History of Varanasi: A 3,000-Year Journey

Origins in Mythology: Lord Shiva's City

Long before the first historian put pen to papyrus, Varanasi already existed  at least in the hearts of Hindus.

According to sacred tradition, Varanasi was founded by Lord Shiva himself, the destroyer and transformer of the universe. He chose this spot on the Ganges because of its supreme spiritual energy  a place where the veil between the mortal world and the divine is at its thinnest.

The name Kashi comes from the Sanskrit root kaś-, meaning "to shine." Varanasi is not just a city. It is the City of Light  a place that radiates divine luminescence.

The Rigveda  one of humanity's oldest sacred texts, composed around 1500 BCE  already mentions Kashi. That means Varanasi was sacred enough to be written about before most of the ancient world had even developed writing.

The Archaeological Record: 1800 BCE to 600 BCE

Mythology aside, hard evidence backs Varanasi's staggering age.

Excavations at Rajghat (near Malviya Bridge), conducted in the 1940s, uncovered ancient pottery, seals, and the remnants of city walls dating to at least 1800 BCE. Some specialists believe traces of habitation may go even earlier.

During the Vedic period (around 1200–800 BCE), Varanasi emerged as a center of Sanskrit learning, philosophy, and Brahmanical religious practice. Sages, scholars, and students flocked here from across the subcontinent, drawn by its intellectual and spiritual reputation.

By the Upanishadic era (around 800 BCE), it had become the crucible of Indian thought  a place where the fundamental questions of existence, consciousness, and the divine were debated openly in ashrams and forest retreats.

Quick Facts: Varanasi's Ancient Roots

Period	Key Event
1800 BCE	Earliest archaeological evidence of settlement at Rajghat
1500 BCE	Mentioned in the Rigveda as "Kashi"
800 BCE	Major center of Upanishadic philosophy
600 BCE	Capital of the Kingdom of Kashi
528 BCE	Buddha delivers first sermon at Sarnath, 10 km away

 

The Kingdom of Kashi: 6th Century BCE

By the 6th century BCE, Varanasi had grown into the capital of the Kingdom of Kashi  one of the sixteen Mahajanapadas (great kingdoms) of ancient India. It was wealthy, sophisticated, and politically powerful.

The city's importance during this era is well documented in ancient texts including the Mahabharata, Ramayana, and numerous Puranas. It was a center of art, music, medicine, commerce, and philosophy.

Traders from Varanasi traveled across Asia. The city was renowned for ivory work, textiles, perfumes, and silk  luxury goods that made their way along early trade routes to distant lands.

 

Varanasi and the Buddha: 528 BCE

Here is one of history's most beautiful coincidences:

The same city that is Hinduism's holiest site is also where Buddhism was effectively born.

When Siddhartha Gautama attained enlightenment in Bodh Gaya, he traveled to Sarnath  just 10 km from Varanasi  to give his very first sermon to five disciples. This sermon, known as the Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta (Setting the Wheel of Dharma in Motion), established the core teachings of Buddhism.

For centuries, Varanasi was as important to Buddhists as it was to Hindus. The Chinese Buddhist pilgrim Xuanzang, who visited around 635 CE, described the city stretching five kilometers along the western bank of the Ganges and spoke of its thriving monasteries and temples.

Sarnath remains one of the most important Buddhist pilgrimage sites in the world. Its Dhamek Stupa, built by Emperor Ashoka in the 3rd century BCE, still stands as silent witness to that first moment of dharmic teaching.

Did You Know? Varanasi is also sacred to Jains  it is believed to be the birthplace of Parsvanath, the 23rd Tirthankara.

 

The Mauryan Empire: 3rd Century BCE

The Mauryan Empire brought Varanasi fully into the orbit of a pan-Indian political order. Emperor Ashoka (268–232 BCE), after his profound conversion to Buddhism following the brutal Kalinga War, visited Varanasi and commissioned pillars and edicts throughout the region, spreading his messages of non-violence and dharma.

The famous Lion Capital of Ashoka  now India's national emblem  was found at Sarnath, erected by Ashoka as a monument near the site of the Buddha's first sermon.

 

The Gupta Golden Age: 4th–6th Century CE

The Gupta Empire (320–550 CE) brought a golden age to Varanasi. Under Gupta patronage, Sanskrit literature, Hindu philosophy, and classical arts flourished. Poets like Kalidasa may have walked these very streets. The city's reputation as the intellectual capital of India reached new heights.

Xuanzang's 635 CE account describes a prosperous, spiritually vibrant city of thousands of devout Hindus and an active Buddhist community.

The Mughal Period: Trial, Destruction, and Resilience

The story of Varanasi under Mughal rule is one of the most complex and contested chapters in Indian history.

The initial blow came in 1194 CE, when Muhammad of Ghor's general Qutb-ud-Din Aibak sacked the city. Hundreds of Hindu temples were destroyed, scholars fled, and the city entered a long period of decline under the Delhi Sultanate.

Emperor Akbar (1556–1605)  the great Mughal known for his policy of religious tolerance  brought significant relief. He permitted Hindu temples to be rebuilt and allowed religious life to revive. Varanasi began to breathe again.

However, Emperor Aurangzeb (1658–1707) reversed this. His reign saw another wave of temple destruction, including the original Kashi Vishwanath Temple, on the site of which he built the Gyanvapi Mosque  a structure that remains at the heart of religious and legal debate in India to this day.

Yet Varanasi's spirit was unbreakable.

After Aurangzeb's death, the Marathas sponsored a grand revival. In 1780, the extraordinary Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore commissioned the construction of the new Kashi Vishwanath Temple that stands today  one of the most visited temples in India, receiving tens of thousands of pilgrims daily.

 

The Banaras State and British Rule: 18th–20th Century

By the 18th century, Varanasi had passed through the hands of the Mughal Empire and regional powers before the Nawab of Oudh ceded the Benares region to the British East India Company in 1775.

Under British rule, Varanasi was transformed administratively:

• In 1791, resident Jonathan Duncan founded a Sanskrit College  one of the first formal institutions to preserve classical Indian learning under colonial patronage
• In 1867, the Varanasi Municipal Board was established, modernizing the city's infrastructure
• In 1898, Annie Besant founded the Central Hindu College, later playing a key role in establishing Banaras Hindu University (BHU) in 1916 alongside Pandit Madan Mohan Malaviya

BHU became one of Asia's largest residential universities and remains a crown jewel of Indian higher education.

Varanasi also became a hotbed of Indian nationalism. The city's presses, its intellectual community, and its religious weight made it a natural center for the independence movement.

 

Independence to the Present

After India's independence in 1947, Varanasi continued its dual role as sacred city and cultural powerhouse.

In recent years, major government investment in the Kashi Vishwanath Corridor (inaugurated in 2021) has transformed the approach to the temple, making it more accessible while preserving its sacred character. The city now welcomes millions of domestic and international tourists each year.

 

The Sacred Ghats: The Heartbeat of Varanasi

No discussion of Varanasi's history is complete without the ghats  the stone-stepped riverbanks that are the city's most iconic feature.

There are 84 ghats in Varanasi (some accounts say 88), each with its own mythology, history, and daily ritual life. Here are the most historically significant:

Dashashwamedha Ghat

The oldest and most famous ghat, according to mythology, where Lord Brahma performed the Dashashwamedha (ten-horse sacrifice). This is where the spectacular Ganga Aarti takes place every evening  an unmissable spectacle of fire, chanting, and devotion that draws thousands of visitors nightly.

Image suggestion: Wide-angle dusk shot of Ganga Aarti ceremony ALT text: "Ganga Aarti ceremony at Dashashwamedha Ghat Varanasi at dusk" File name: ganga-aarti-dashashwamedha-ghat-varanasi.jpg

Manikarnika Ghat

The great cremation ghat, where pyres have burned without interruption for thousands of years. Hindus believe that dying in Varanasi  and being cremated at Manikarnika  grants moksha (liberation from the cycle of rebirth). Fires here are said to have never gone out.

This is one of the most profound, humbling, and uniquely human places you will ever witness.

Assi Ghat

The southernmost ghat, associated with the goddess Durga. Today it is a peaceful center for yoga, meditation, and sunrise rituals. Assi Ghat has also become a hub for the city's artistic and literary community.

Scindia Ghat

Known for its partially submerged Shiva temple  a beautiful, eerie image of a spire disappearing into the Ganges, testament to the river's power and the city's age.

 

The Kashi Vishwanath Temple: A Sacred History

Of all Varanasi's thousands of temples, none is more significant than Kashi Vishwanath  the Golden Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.

It is one of India's twelve Jyotirlingas (sacred manifestations of Shiva's light), making it among the holiest shrines in all of Hinduism.

Key historical milestones:

• Ancient origins  first references in Hindu scripture
• 1194 CE  destroyed during Muhammad of Ghor's invasion
• Rebuilt and destroyed multiple times during the medieval period
• 1669 CE  destroyed on orders of Emperor Aurangzeb; Gyanvapi Mosque built on adjacent site
• 1780 CE  present temple built by Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore
• The iconic gold-plated spires were added by Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Punjab in the 19th century
• 2021  Kashi Vishwanath Corridor inaugurated, opening the temple directly to the river for the first time in centuries

Pilgrims from every corner of India  and the world  come to Varanasi specifically to offer prayers here. Visiting the temple at dawn, navigating the narrow lanes of the old city, is one of the most immersive cultural experiences India offers.

Varanasi's Buddhist Connection: Sarnath

Most visitors to Varanasi don't realize they are also extremely close to one of Buddhism's holiest sites.

Sarnath, just 10 km north of Varanasi, is where Siddhartha Gautama  the Buddha  delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. This was the birth of the Buddhist Sangha (community).

What to see at Sarnath:

• Dhamek Stupa (5th century CE)  a towering cylindrical stupa marking the exact spot of the first sermon
• Chaukhandi Stupa  built where the Buddha met his first disciples
• Ashoka Pillar  the original bore the famous Lion Capital (now India's national emblem, at the Sarnath Museum)
• Sarnath Archaeological Museum  home to some of the finest Buddhist sculptures in India

Sarnath is easily combined with a Varanasi visit and adds extraordinary historical depth to any itinerary.

 

 

Varanasi's Cultural Heritage: Silk, Music, and the Arts

The history of Varanasi is not only written in temples and ghats. It lives in the hands of its weavers, the fingers of its musicians, and the voices of its poets.

Banarasi Silk

For over 500 years, Varanasi has been the undisputed home of Banarasi silk sarees  woven with extraordinary skill using fine silk and intricate patterns incorporating gold and silver threads. A single saree can take weeks to create and is considered one of India's greatest artisanal treasures.

Music and Dance

Varanasi has produced some of India's most celebrated artists:

• Ravi Shankar  the sitar maestro who brought Indian classical music to global audiences
• Ustad Bismillah Khan  the legendary shehnai player, whose haunting music seems made for Varanasi's misty dawns
• Girija Devi, Kishan Maharaj, Siddheshwari Devi  titans of Indian classical arts

Literature

The city nurtured towering literary figures including Kabir Das, Tulsidas (who wrote the Ramcharitmanas here), Prem Chand, and Bharatendu Harishchandra. The Tulsi Manas Temple even has the verses of the Ramcharitmanas inscribed on its walls.

Ayurveda

Varanasi is considered one of the birthplaces of Ayurveda. The legendary physician Sushruta, credited with pioneering surgical techniques in ancient India, trained and practiced here. His Sushruta Samhita remains a foundational text of traditional Indian medicine.

 

How to Plan Your Varanasi Tour

How to Reach Varanasi

By Air: Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport (VNS) has direct connections to Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, and major Indian cities. Delhi to Varanasi is approximately 1.5 hours by air.

By Train: Varanasi Junction (BSB) is well connected across India. The Vande Bharat Express from Delhi takes approximately 8 hours and is a comfortable option.

By Road: Varanasi is approximately 5–6 hours from Lucknow by road and connects to the Golden Triangle via national highways.

Ideal Duration

A meaningful visit to Varanasi requires 3–4 days minimum. To truly absorb the ancient city of Varanasi  including Sarnath  allow 4–5 days.

Suggested Varanasi Itinerary

Day	Activity
Day 1	Arrive, evening Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedha Ghat
Day 2	Early morning boat ride, Kashi Vishwanath Temple, old city lanes
Day 3	Sarnath day trip  Dhamek Stupa, Museum, Chaukhandi Stupa
Day 4	Ramnagar Fort, Assi Ghat yoga, Banarasi silk shopping
Day 5	Depart or extend to Agra/Golden Triangle

Transport Within Varanasi

• Cycle rickshaw  the best way to navigate the narrow lanes (galis) of the old city
• Auto-rickshaw / e-rickshaw  for longer distances
• Boat on the Ganges  essential for ghat-hopping, especially at sunrise

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Best Time to Visit Varanasi

Month	Weather	Recommendation
October – February	Cool and pleasant (10–22°C)	⭐ Best time
March – April	Warm (22–35°C)	✅ Good
May – June	Very hot (35–45°C)	❌ Avoid
July – September	Monsoon, humid	⚠️ Atmospheric but wet
November (Dev Deepawali)	Cool, festive	⭐ Special occasion

Best time of day: Sunrise at the ghats is non-negotiable. The early morning light on the Ganges, the boats emerging from the mist, the distant sound of temple bells  it is one of the world's great travel experiences.

Special Events to Target:

• Dev Deepawali (Kartik Purnima, October/November)  The city glows with hundreds of thousands of oil lamps
• Ganga Mahotsav (November)  five-day cultural festival
• Mahashivaratri (February/March)  Varanasi at its most spiritually electric

What You Will Experience in Varanasi

Key Attractions

• Dashashwamedha Ghat Ganga Aarti  the most spectacular evening ritual in India
• Kashi Vishwanath Temple (Golden Temple)  Hinduism's most sacred Shiva shrine
• Sarnath  Buddhism's most important location outside Bodh Gaya
• Manikarnika Ghat  the sacred cremation ground that has burned for millennia
• Ramnagar Fort  home of the Kashi Naresh (king of Varanasi), with a museum of royal artifacts
• Banaras Hindu University Campus  stunning architecture, with its own Vishwanath temple

Unique Experiences

• Sunrise boat ride on the Ganges  watching the city wake up from the water
• Walking the galis (lanes) of the old city  a labyrinthine world of temples, flower sellers, tea stalls, and silk weavers
• Attending the Ganga Aarti  not just watching but feeling the collective devotion
• Watching Banarasi silk being woven in traditional workshops
• Tasting street food  chaat, tamatar chaat, lassi at Blue Lassi, malaiyo (a seasonal milk foam dessert found only in Varanasi in winter)

 

Travel Tips for Varanasi

Entry & Logistics

• Kashi Vishwanath Temple: Free entry. Foreigners welcome. Photography restrictions inside the main shrine. Leave shoes and leather items outside.
• Sarnath Museum: Entry ₹250 (approx. $3 USD). Open daily except Fridays.
• Ganga Aarti: Free to watch from the ghats. Arrive 30 minutes early for good viewing.

What to Carry

• Comfortable walking shoes (you will walk a lot)
• Modest clothing  shoulders and knees covered for temple visits
• A scarf or stole (useful for women in crowded religious areas)
• Cash (many small vendors and temple stalls are cash only)
• Water bottle and sun protection (October–April mornings can be cool; afternoons warm)

Practical Tips for Western Travelers

• Expect the unexpected. Varanasi operates on spiritual time, not schedule time.
• Touts and guides will approach you constantly near ghats. Pre-arrange a licensed guide through your tour operator.
• Boat rides: Negotiate the price before boarding. A standard sunrise ghat tour runs approximately ₹500–1,000 ($6–12 USD) per boat.
• Photography etiquette: Always ask before photographing people. At Manikarnika Ghat, photography is strictly prohibited  honor this with sensitivity.

 

Common Mistakes Travelers Make in Varanasi

1. Only visiting for one day. Varanasi cannot be experienced in a day. You need at minimum two full days, ideally three or four.

2. Skipping Sarnath. Sarnath is 20 minutes from central Varanasi and adds an entirely different historical dimension. Most visitors who skip it regret it.

3. Going only to the main ghats. The lesser-known ghats  Scindia, Tulsi, Kedar  offer just as much beauty with far fewer crowds.

4. Not waking up early. The sunrise boat ride on the Ganges is arguably the single most powerful travel experience in North India. Do not miss it.

5. Rushing through the old city lanes. The galis of the old city reward those who slow down. Get lost deliberately. Follow the sound of a harmonium or the smell of incense.

6. Ignoring the food. Varanasi's street food culture is extraordinary. Tamatar chaat, kachori sabzi, and the legendary lassi at Blue Lassi are not optional.

 

Cost Guide for Varanasi (USD)

Expense	Budget	Mid-Range	Luxury
Hotel (per night)	$15–30	$50–100	$150–300+
Meals (per day)	$5–10	$15–30	$40–80
Sunrise boat ride	$6–12	$12–20	Private boat $50+
Guided day tour	$25–40	$60–100	$150+
Sarnath entry	$3	$3	$3
Estimated 3-day trip	$150–200	$350–500	$800–1,500+

FAQs About the History of Varanasi India

Q: How old is Varanasi? Varanasi is considered one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities. Archaeological evidence confirms habitation dating to at least 1800 BCE, though Hindu tradition holds the city is even older, founded by Lord Shiva in primordial times.

Q: Why is Varanasi called Kashi? "Kashi" comes from the Sanskrit root kaś-, meaning "to shine." It translates as the City of Light  a reference to the divine luminescence Hindus believe radiates from this sacred site.

Q: What is the connection between Varanasi and the Buddha? Though Varanasi is primarily a Hindu city, Sarnath  located just 10 km away  is where the Buddha gave his very first sermon after attaining enlightenment. This makes the Varanasi-Sarnath region one of the most significant spiritual locations for Buddhism worldwide.

Q: How many temples are in Varanasi? Historical accounts suggest Varanasi has over 2,000 temples, with some estimates ranging as high as 3,300. The most important is the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Q: What happened to Varanasi during the Mughal period? Varanasi suffered significant temple destruction during the reigns of early Muslim rulers (from 1194 CE) and again under Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in the 17th century. However, the city revived under the Marathas and Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar, who built the current Kashi Vishwanath Temple in 1780.

Q: What is the Gyanvapi Mosque controversy? The Gyanvapi Mosque, built by Aurangzeb adjacent to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple site in the 17th century, has been the subject of ongoing legal and religious disputes in modern India. Some Hindu groups claim it was built over a demolished temple.

Q: Is Varanasi safe for foreign tourists? Yes  Varanasi is one of India's most visited cities by international tourists. Normal precautions apply: use reputable guides, pre-book transport, and be respectful of religious customs at sacred sites.

Q: Can I visit Varanasi as part of a Golden Triangle tour? Absolutely. Many visitors combine Varanasi with the Golden Triangle (Delhi–Agra–Jaipur) for an extended North India itinerary. Trip to Taj Mahal offers custom packages combining the Taj Mahal with Varanasi.

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